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  • Writer's pictureArchana Shandilya

Body builders of Perfumery - FRUITS


Definition - Fleshy seed associated structure of plant that are sweet, sour, and edible in raw state, such as Banana, Apple, Grapes, Lemon, Orange, Strawberry etc.


In any rituals across religion together with flowers we offer fresh seasonal fruits too to the almighty.


In perfumery there is no fragrance exist (as far as I am aware) without fruity note. Famous fragrance are :



There are plenty of aroma chemicals in perfumery which give fruity dimension to fragrance.

All esters are either in form of Formate, Butyrate, Caproate, Propionate or Acetate exhibit fruity note.

Let's dive into the journey on fruit and its worth in perfumery with four major classifications -


1. Acetate Category :


This category will further be categorized into two functional group - acetate anion and the acetate ester.


The acetate anion is formed from acetic acid and has a chemical formula CH3COO-.




Acetate Anion is commonly abbreviated as OAc in formula. For more perfumery abbreviation please visit below URL


Benzyl acetate, Linalyl acetate, Terpinyl acetate, Iso amyl acetate, Phenyl ethyl acetate and many more perfumery aroma chemical have acetate group, impart fruity note to fragrance.


Benzyl acetate, yes its well known ingredient of jasmine fragrance, but next time when you come across Benzyl acetate: close your eyes for a moment, relax and breathe; fruity note?


Yes! You gotcha! Its banana Note.


Benzyl acetate


Linalyl acetate, main ingredient of Bergamot and Lavender, and interestingly it imparts Blueberry character to fragrance.


Linalyl Acetate


Phenyl ethyl acetate add sparkling gulkand note to Rose, it has honey sweetness.


Phenyl ethyl acetate


2. Propionate :


Propionate is Greek word, came from carboxylic acid with chemical formula CH3CH2COOH- and as the name indicates, it has 3 carbon.




Benzyl Propionate, Iso amyl propionate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, Linalyl propionate, Styrallyl Propionate are some good example of propionate category.


Benzyl Propionate add new spark to strawberry, Raspberry and other Fruity note.


Benzyl Propionate



Allyl cyclohexyl priopionate (AAG) have tingling Sour and Sweet note. It’s one of Chameleonic ingredients of perfumery. It could blend with Citrus, Apple, Pineapple or other fruity note.


Allyl amyl Glycolate


For more information please check the link


Linalyl Propionate have sparkling Passion fruit note, Lychee, Tropical Fruit and Rhubabic character.


Linalyl Propionate


3. Butyrate :


Butyrate or butanoate is traditional name for conjugate base of Butyric acid.

Butyric acid meaning ‘Butter’.




Butyrate adds ripe, Red fruit charter more to fragrance.

At perfect level it add sparkling, tingling character to fragrance but if level become higher it give overripe character to fragrance.



Geranyl Butyrate, Citronellyl Butyrate, Phenyl ethyl butyrate, Phenoxy ethyl butyrate, Iso amyl Butyrate, Benzyl Butyrate and many more butyrate aroma chemicals are there in perfumer’s pallet

Geranyl Butyrate: At ppm level give Rosy-honeydew whiff, but as dose increases direction will change from floral to fruity.


Geranyl Butyrate


Based on my experience Gernyl butyrate is Overipped Papaya Note and Jackfruit note

Apart from ester, Lactone also plays essential character to fruity Note.


Please check the link for more detail :


Gamma Undecalactone, Gamma Nonalactone, Gamma Dodecalactone all will support as and give juicy, velvety, Creamy, waxy heavy character to fragrance.


I can’t imagine tropical fruit character without using lactone.


4. Special Ingredients :


Apart from ester and lactone, there are some special ingredients, act as the ornament for fruity note. Methyl pamplemousse, Dew fruit, Damascone, Sultanene etc are some of them.


Please share your list of ornaments as fruity ingredients of perfumery.


Hope you had a happy reading, keep in touch!


All Rights Reserved | The Perfumer's Valley

Archana Shandilya

 

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