One well known proverb on chameleons we all are aware of is: "The chameleons change color to match the color of mother earth".
The reason why I added ‘Chameleons’ as prefix before Perfumery to maintain the title of this article is that there are some aroma chemicals which behave similar to chameleons, means they can marry with any fragrance family either its Citrus, Floral, fruity, oriental, Fougere, or Chypre.
Let’s walk through them one after another -
1. Dihydromyrcenol (Abbreviated as DHM)
Odor Description:
While I smell this I get Metallic note more in DHM.
Its Metallic-Fresh-Clean-cologne note
DHM can blend with maximum fragrance family in such a hybrid way that its hard to get independent isolated DHM aroma.
Some world-famous fine fragrance having DHM as a main ingredients are:
2. Linalool
Odor Description: Floral-citrus-Blueberry-Basil-Bois De Rose type
Linalool is other chameleon of perfumery, it presents as a main constituent in not only citrus Bergamot, petitgrain but also in aromatic Lavender, Herbal Basil and Bois de Rose. Together with Citrus-Aromatic-Herbal character, it is also giving remarkable note to blueberry.
Combination of Dihydromyrcenol, Linalool and Linalyl acetate together give synergic effect to fragrance.
World famous fine fragrance having Linalool in it are -
Cool Water by Davidoff
Aqua De Gio
Paris Hilton
Sensual
Bombshell
3. Hedione/ Methyl dihydrjasmonate (Abbreviated as MDJ)
Hedione is no doubt one of most important chameleons of perfumery.
Odor Description: To be real I spend more than two year just to get exact note of Hedione. Earlier I was getting transparent note and gradually heavy, clean, petal note before achieving Hedione.
I believe approx. 80% of world's finest fragrance have Hedione in it.
Few fragrance which have Highest percentage of Hedione in it is -
Tresor by Lancome:
Tresor by Lancome is one of the best seller perfume; created by Sophia Grojsman, it has 80% of Grojsman Accord. Accord Constituents are:
4. Iso E Super or Timber Silk
Olfactive Description: Iso e super have subtle velvet softness like Ionone type, with amber and woodyness.
Iso E Super gives Feather, Velvet, Suede and Fullness character to fragrance.
Together with fine fragrance it goes very well with fabric care, Air care, and Personal care and even with Incense stick fragrance.
Commonly Iso e Super combine with Hedione while creation, since it give synergic effect and roundness and fullness to fragrance.
Common Famous fragrance which have Iso E Super as main ingredients are:
Please share your experience with any such Chameleon ingredients of Perfumery.
All Rights Reserved | The Perfumer's Valley
Archana Shandilya
Very apt article. Actually hard to imagine perfumery without using these ingredients. 👌